Adaptogen Technology for Skin Resilience Benefits

Andrea Cavagnino,Lionel Breton, Charline Ruaux, Celeste Grossgold, Suzy Levoy,Rawad Abdayem, Romain Roumiguiere, Stephanie Cheilian, Anne Bouchara,Martin A. Baraibar,Audrey Gueniche

COSMETICS(2023)

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摘要
(1) Background: Skin undergoes constant changes, providing capabilities to repair and renovate its constituents once damaged and a fundamental shield to contrast environmental stress. Nevertheless, environmental stressors may overcome the skin's protective potential inducing premature aging and accelerating the appearance of anaesthetic age-related skin aspects. Ultraviolet radiation (UVR) and pollutants (particulate matters, PAHs) contribute to skin aging and functional decline inducing harmful oxidative modifications of macromolecules and stress-related skin disorders. Innovative approaches to preserve skin are needed. (2) Methods: Skin keratinocytes were treated (or not) with a combination of ingredients (Lactobacillus plantarum extract, Withania somnifera root extract and Terminalia ferdinandiana fruit extract; "MIX") in the presence or absence of stress (oxidative stress or pollution). The effects of the MIX adaptogen technology on (a) cellular resilience, (b) the regulation of cellular functions and (c) regeneration of skin were disclosed through expression proteomics and bioinformatics analyses first, and then through focused evaluations of protein carbonylation as a hallmark of oxidative stress' deleterious impact and mitochondrial activity. (3) Results: The deleterious impact of stressors was evidenced, as well as the beneficial effects of the MIX through (a) mitochondrial activity preservation, (b) the "vigilance" of the NRF2 pathway activation, (c) NADPH production and protein homeostasis improvements, (d) preserving skin regeneration function and I the contrasting stress-induced oxidation (carbonylation) of mitochondrial and nuclear proteins. (4) Conclusions: The effects of the MIX on increasing cell adaptability and resilience under stress suggested a beneficial contribution in precision cosmetics and healthy human skin by acting as an adaptogen, an innovative approach that may be employed to improve resistance to harmful stress with a potential favourable impact on skin homeostasis.
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关键词
adaptogens,skin benefits,oxidative stress,pollution,skin disorders,mitochondrial function,protein carbonylation,proteomics
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