Innovation and inheritance: A novel strategy for the development of anti-yellowing cosmetic material from TCM formula

Abstract Background Yellow complexion is a major skin issue that bothers Chinese women. The major factor leading to sallow complexion is the accumulation of advanced glycosylation end products (AGEs). Traditional Chinese medicine (TCM) treats dull, yellow complexion as being associated with liver-, spleen- or stomach-related functional disorders. Through analysis of prescription data, we explored combinations of new prescriptions with yellow-dispelling effects.Methods We extracted the most commonly used drug pairs and core medicine in anti-yellowing formulas, then carry out hierarchical clustering analysis and extract new formula combinations. The combination effect was determined by falvnoe, DPPH radical scavenging activity and Non-enzymatic glycosylation inhibiting activity. Toxicological analysis included HET-CAM, 3T3 phototoxicity, multiple irritation and patch test.Result Three empirical formulas were identified according to drug frequency analysis, and a new formula was identified according to the results of hierarchical clustering analysis. A series of biochemical experiments proved that the best anti-yellow-complexion formula combination was the new one. The results of the safety investigation showed that the new formula at a concentration of 5% had no eye irritation effects, no irritant or corrosive effects on mammalian skin, and no adverse reactions with human skin.Conclusion This study explored and analysed the internal laws of TCM for treatment of yellow complexion and, on this basis, developed a plant combination extract material with an anti-yellowing effect on skin.