The Effect of Cosmetic Ingredients of Phenol Type on Immediate Pigment Darkening and Their (Photo)Protective Action in Association with Melanin Pigmentation: A Model In Vitro Study

Immediate pigment darkening, the first response of skin to solar exposure leading to undesired irregular pigmentation and dark spots, is the rapid onset of melanin pigmentation resulting from oxidation of the melanogenic indoles, namely 5,6-dihydroxyindole (DHI) and 5,6-dihydroxyindole-2-carboxylic acid (DHICA) available in epidermal melanocytes. The search for effective sunscreen formulations is nowadays focused on UVA/B filters and additional ingredients that may scavenge the reactive oxygen species generated in these processes. In this work the effects of phenolic cosmetic ingredients (CIs), paradol-6, a ginger CO2 extract, and phenylethyl resorcinol on photosensitized DHI and DHICA oxidation were investigated showing a decrease of their consumption and melanin formation (25-30% decrease with phenylethyl resorcinol). The photoprotective role of CIs was also evaluated in model systems. Paradol-6 and ginger CO2 extract can halve linoleic acid peroxidation in the riboflavin-sensitized reaction, while dienes generation reduction (30% of control) was observed in the Rose-Bengal-sensitized photooxidation with paradol-6. The presence of DHI/DHICA melanin exerted a synergistic effect. The decay of thymine free or as a DNA base was almost completely inhibited by CIs. These results open new perspectives in the design of skin care formulations for ameliorating skin spots and contrasting ageing processes associated with sun exposure.