Specific protection of sensitive skin against environmental stress by maintenance and improvement of barrier function

Background Sensitive skin is a common condition that can severely impact quality of life. Several mechanisms are thought to be involved, including those affecting the skin barrier function, hydration and skin innervation. Objectives To investigate the benefit of cream and balm formulations dedicated to sensitive skin and containing Aquaphilus dolomiae extract-G3 (ADE-G3) on skin barrier functions (lipid composition, pH, TEWL), as well as protective responses to dry and pollution stresses. Methods In vitro sensitized (using histamine) reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) were subjected to dehydration and pollution stress in the absence and presence of the formulations. Endpoint measurements included transepithelial electric resistance (TEER), stratum corneum protein expression and lipid contents. Clinical measurements included transepithelial water loss (TEWL), skin pH and the lipid index. Results When applied in cream and balm formulations, ADE-G3, increased the TEER in sensitized RHEs. In non-sensitized dehydrated RHEs, both formulations increased recovery of skin barrier integrity after dehydration, evident as a return of the ratios of filaggrin/profilaggrin and caspase-14/procaspase-14 to values measured in control non-stressed RHEs, as well as reducing the 'natural moisturizing factor' to control levels. In clinical studies performed on dry human skin, the formulations helped to maintain and improve the skin barrier function. This was evident as an intense and sustained moisturization (total lipids and lipid esters were increased), an increase in pH and a decrease in the TEWL by both formulations. When exposed to pollution stress by treating the models with benzo[a]pyrene and airborne particulate matter (PM10), application of both formulations prior to exposure attenuated the induction of CYP1A1, CYP1B1 and UGT1A7 expression, indicating a protective effect. Conclusions ADE-G3 cream and balm formulations increased the hydration of the skin but also protected and improved the skin barrier integrity of sensitive skin exposed to dry and cold and airborne pollutant-induced stress environments.