Strong effect of Penicillium roqueforti populations on volatile and metabolic compounds responsible for aromas, flavor and texture in blue cheeses

Studies of food microorganism domestication can provide important insight into adaptation mechanisms and lead to commercial applications. Penicillium roqueforti is a fungus with four genetically differentiated populations, two of which were independently domesticated for blue cheese-making, with the other two populations thriving in other environments. Most blue cheeses are made with strains from a single P. roqueforti population, whereas Roquefort cheeses are inoculated with strains from a second population. We made blue cheeses in accordance with the production specifications for Roquefort-type cheeses, inoculating each cheese with a single P. roqueforti strain, using a total of three strains from each of the four populations. We investigated differences between the cheeses made with the strains from the four P. roqueforti populations, in terms of the induced flora, the proportion of blue color, water activity and the identity and abundance of aqueous and organic metabolites as proxies for proteolysis and lipolysis as well as volatile compounds responsible for flavor and aroma. We found that the population-of-origin of the P. roqueforti strains used for inoculation had a minor impact on bacterial diversity and no effect on the abundance of the main microorganism. The cheeses produced with P. roqueforti strains from cheese populations had a higher percentage of blue area and a higher abundance of the volatile compounds typical of blue cheeses, such as methyl ketones and secondary alcohols. In particular, the Roquefort strains produced higher amounts of these aromatic compounds, partly due to more efficient proteolysis and lipolysis. The Roquefort strains also led to cheeses with a lower water availability, an important feature for preventing spoilage in blue cheeses, which is subject to controls for the sale of Roquefort cheese. The typical appearance and flavors of blue cheeses thus result from human selection on P. roqueforti, leading to the acquisition of specific features by the two cheese populations. These findings have important implications for our understanding of adaptation and domestication, and for cheese improvement. ### Competing Interest Statement TC, MLP, SB, DR and MP were employed by SAS LIP, which produces starters for fermented food products, during the course of the study and therefore declare a competing financial interest. None of the other authors has any conflict of interest to declare. With the exception of TC employed by the LIP, the funders had no role in decisions concerning design, data analysis and interpretation, or in the decision to submit the work for publication.